#drinkport with Stephanie Mitchell
Why aren’t more Americans drinking Port wine?
This was the question that started this exploration project.
As part of this project, I’ve been seeking out American Port wine drinkers. I was lucky enough to find and reach out to Stephanie Mitchell — a Port wine specialist — on LinkedIn and she agreed to answer some questions I have.
Rebecca: Describe your first experience tasting Port wine. Where were you? When was it? What was your first impression?
STEPHANIE: The first time I tasted Port wine was when I was a server at a small bed and breakfast. I was newly 21 and wanted to learn about all of the wines on the list so that I could speak about them and sell them. I remember our Southern Wines and Spirits sales representative came in and had all of us sample their offering. We tried ruby and tawny Ports side-by-side to compare and contrast. I remember not fully understanding how they were made and it wasn’t until I was 26 when I took over the beverage program that I took it upon myself to learn about the intricate process that creates such unique expressions of wine.
Rebecca: Many of our audience members who completed Starboard’s inaugural survey are interested to know how they should begin their Port wine experience – what’s the best entry-level Port? How should they approach buying Port wine? Where should they look?
STEPHANIE: I always say start with wines that are more simple and then graduate on to more complex wines as you develop your understanding of them. This allows your pallet to have something to base your further exploration on.
“I would start with a reserve ruby Port. These wines often have names such as Bin 27 from Fonseca or Six Grapes From Grahams. These wines have loads of primary, fresh fruit aromas and flavors that come forward and match the sweetness that is tasted on the pallet. I would also recommend trying them in cocktails.”
Rebecca: Is there a drier Port or are they all sweet?
STEPHANIE: Port wine has its own sweetness spectrum that differs from standard still wines. That said, there is a broad variation in sugar levels in Port wine — most fall at about 75 grams per liter, which is comparable to a can of Coca-Cola. However, there are drier styles, particularly white Ports, that feature 17 grams per liter of residual sugar. Generally, the more time a Port has spent aging in oak casks, the higher the sugar content due to loss of water volume through evaporation.
Rebecca: When I first told friends and family about Starboard, they were intrigued but largely curious: why Port wine? What’s the biggest misconception about Port wine?
STEPHANIE: Having traveled all over the country for four years I have heard it all.
“There are so many misconceptions about Port wine — that it’s indestructible and can be left once opened for months or years and still be good; that it should only be served at the end of a meal; that it’s for old people; that any bottle of Port can benefit from bottle aging.”
Let me clear these up.
Port wine, while more shelf-stable than a still wine due to the added alcohol fortification, still needs to be treated as a wine rather than a spirit. Once opened, it is vulnerable to oxidation and will lose its aromatics the longer it is left out. The less time a Port has spent aging in oak, the less time it takes for the process of oxidation to spoil the wine’s flavor profile.
Essentially, ruby Ports should be consumed within 3-6 weeks after the bottle has been opened. Vintage Ports that have been aged in the bottle should be consumed within one week of being opened. Tawny Ports should be consumed within three months of being opened.
“No wonder people think they don’t like Port when they sample the ancient bottle that has been open and kept above the fridge for six years.”
Rebecca: Let’s chat about how to drink Port. When should we drink it?
STEPHANIE: Though sweet, Port can be served for a variety of occasions and with a broad range of food pairings. I have enjoyed Ports with cheeses, desserts, and tasting menus where Ports were served for each course, both on its own and mixed into cocktails. Due to the range of flavors and styles, Port is much more versatile than saving it for the end of a meal.
Rebecca: The million-dollar question… why isn’t Port more popular among American consumers?
STEPHANIE: Port became very popular in the 70s due to a stretch of vintage Ports that gained recognition while both wine consumption and production took off in the United States. I believe this is why a lot of contemporary wine drinkers think that Port and wine, in general, is an older style of beverage. In recent years, we have seen a surge in classic vintages again and with a trend toward premiumization in the wine category it is likely that Port will benefit from that trend.
Also, consumption of Port wine is a British-Portuguese tradition. Another fact that can’t be ignored is that while more Americans are drinking wine now, most don’t drink wine at all. Of all Americans of drinking age, only 60 percent consume alcohol and only 40 percent of that fraction consume wine at all.
“I would also say that most Americans don’t know much about Port wine and its rich history and traditions. It isn’t until we understand something that we feel empowered to try it.”
Rebecca: Lastly (and because I ask the same opening and closing question to everyone in this series), how do you prefer to #drinkport? Set the scene: What style are you drinking? Where and when are you drinking it? And how often?
STEPHANIE: I feel that each style sets its own scene. I love Serving a reserve Ruby port over ice with an orange slice for a crowd with grilled meats — it’s an easy batch cocktail. I also love to offer surprising pairings with an aged tawny Port. I used to offer prosciutto and aged, nutty cheeses with Taylor Fladgate 20-year-old tawny. Happy sipping!
If you’d like to share your American Port wine story, reach out to me at rebecca@starboardwine.com or message me on Instagram @starboardportwine.
Onward we venture.
Cheers,
Rebecca
