An Abridged History of Port Wine
History is storytelling at its best. Folklore is what happens after we’ve had too much Port wine.
One of the reasons I find Port wine so fascinating is that it’s rich in history. Its origins can be traced back thousands of years.
In fact, the beginnings of Port first emerged in 137 BC when the Romans invaded Portugal (then called Lusitania). They quite literally laid the groundwork for Port wine as they set about building terraces for vines in the iconic Douro Valley — Port wine’s birthplace.
Below are some unique highlights* on the timeline of the history of Port wine:
1095: No, not a tax form, but rather the year the Pinot Noir grape from Burgundy was introduced to the Douro Valley (thank you, Count Henry of Burgundy). It was renamed the Tinta Francisca, which remains one of the most dominant grape varieties in the Douro today.
1386: The Anglo-Portuguese Treaty of Windsor is ratified, signifying the beginning of the long withstanding partnership between England and Portugal that still exists today:
“It may be a case of both countries being seafaring nations jointly facing the Atlantic; but, whatever the reason, it is a marvelous pledge of the mutual enjoyment that wine can bring.” —Ben Howkins, “Rich, Rare, and Red: A Guide to Port”
1640: The Port trade evolves as Portugal reemerges as an independent European state. And while England and France continue to war with one another, Charles II prohibits French wine from being imported into England, increasing red wine sales from Portugal.
1678: The first officially recorded shipment of ‘Vinho do Porto’ is registered in the Oporto customs.
1703: The Methuen Treaty enables Portuguese wines to be imported into England at one-third less duty than French wines, spawning a gold rush-like period of prosperity for the Douro Valley.
1756: The Douro wine region was established by decree of the Marquês de Pombal (1699-1782), the Portuguese Prime Minister at the time, making the Douro Valley the third oldest demarcated appellation in the world after Italy’s Chianti (1716) and Hungary’s Tokaji (1730).
1775: The world’s first vintage Port is reportedly produced. It was likely the world’s first vintage wine — the first bottled vintage claret appeared later in 1797 at Château Lafite.
1868: The insect pest phylloxera strikes the Douro causing mass devastation to the vineyards. The solution? Phylloxera-resistant American rootstock was gradually introduced to the vines.
Mid-1920s: The post-WWI roarings 20s were Port’s golden years. It was in fashion at dinner parties and at pubs.
Port wine is proof that good things never go out of style.
1933: Port wine becomes formally supervised by three organizations: the Instituto do Vinho Porto (the Port Wine Institute); the Casa do Douro (the Farmers’ and Wine Growers’ Association); and the Gremio dos Exportadores do Vinho do Porto (the Port Wine Shippers’ Association). In 2003, the IVP became the IVDP to include Douro wines, and is the official government body that controls the other two organizations.
2001: UNESCO names the Douro Valley — the world’s oldest demarcated wine region — a World Heritage site.
Even today, Port is heavily protected and regulated. By law, it can only be bottled in Portugal and is largely owned by families, not multinationals. For these reasons alone, Port remains a wine rich with heritage and driven by passion and preservation.
And above all, Port wine’s history is a story about people.
Here’s to those committed to the endurance of Port’s legacy. And here’s to writing the next great chapter.
Cheers,
Rebecca
*Largely sourced from the fourth edition of “Rich, Rare, and Red: A Guide to Port” (2014) by Ben Howkins, unless otherwise noted
